Esala Perahera

A Dazzling Celebration of Sri Lankan Culture

Ah, the Esala Perahera! Picture, if you will, a warm July evening in Kandy, Sri Lanka. The air is thick with anticipation, the scent of incense, and the distant rumble of drums. This, my friends, is the setting for one of the world’s oldest and most spectacular cultural events – the Esala Perahera.

A Bit of Background: How It All Began

Now, let’s hop in our imaginary time machine and zip back to 310 A.D. Picture this: a tooth. Not just any tooth, mind you, but the Sacred Tooth Relic of Buddha himself. This prized chomper made its way from India to Sri Lanka during the reign of King Kithsirimewan.

The king, bless him, thought, “Well, we can’t just pop this in a drawer, can we?” So, he did what any sensible monarch would do – he started a festival. The tooth found its first home in the Isurumuniya Temple, where it was honoured with the Dalada Perahera.

Fast forward through centuries of kings, colonisers, and countless celebrations, and here we are today, still throwing one heck of a party for this holy molar.

Why All the Fuss?

You might be wondering, “Why go to all this trouble for a tooth?” Well, let me tell you, this isn’t just any old dental relic. The Esala Perahera is the crème de la crème of Sri Lankan cultural events. It’s like Glastonbury, the Olympics, and a royal wedding all rolled into one, with a healthy dose of Buddhism thrown in for good measure.

This festival is a kaleidoscope of Sri Lankan culture, showcasing everything from traditional dance to elaborate costumes. It’s a chance for locals to connect with their heritage and for tourists to have their socks well and truly knocked off.

The Sacred Tooth Relic: A Bite-Sized History

Now, let’s chew on the story of this famous tooth for a moment. Legend has it that when Buddha was cremated in 543 BCE, one of his teeth was plucked from the pyre. This tooth then embarked on a journey that would make most gap-year backpackers green with envy.

It travelled from India to Sri Lanka, passing through the hands of various kings and facing numerous perils along the way. At one point, it was even said to have been ground to dust, only to miraculously reform itself. Talk about a tough tooth!

Today, the relic rests in the aptly named Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic in Kandy. It’s kept under lock and key, brought out only for special occasions. Think of it as the crown jewels of Sri Lanka, only with more spiritual significance and fewer diamonds.

What to Expect: A Feast for the Senses

Right, let’s break down what you’re in for if you attend this spectacular shindig:

• Elephants galore: Decked out in vibrant cloths and twinkling lights, these gentle giants are the stars of the show.
• Dancers and drummers: Moving to rhythms that’ll have your feet tapping before you know it.
• Whip crackers: Because nothing says ‘festival’ like the sharp crack of a whip, right?
• Fire juggling: Not for the faint-hearted, but utterly mesmerising.

And that’s just the tip of the iceberg! The procession winds through the streets of Kandy, a living, breathing tapestry of colour and sound.

The Perahera Procession: A Step-by-Step Guide

Now, let’s take a stroll through the Perahera procession itself. It’s not just a random parade of elephants and dancers (though that would be quite something). No, there’s a method to this marvellous madness:

1. The Whip Crackers: These chaps lead the way, their whips cutting through the air with a sharp ‘crack!’ It’s said to chase away evil spirits, though I suspect it does a good job of waking up any dozey spectators too.
2. The Flag Bearers: Next come the flag bearers, carrying the standards of the old Kandyan kingdom and various Buddhist symbols. It’s like a history lesson on poles!
3. The Peramuna Nilame: This is the official in charge of the temple’s inner room. He rides an elephant, as one does when one is terribly important.
4. The Tooth Relic: The star of the show! A replica of the tooth relic is carried on the Maligawa Tusker, the most magnificent elephant you’ve ever seen.
5. The Diyawadana Nilame: This fellow is the lay custodian of the tooth relic. He’s dressed to the nines in traditional Kandyan regalia.
6. Dancers and Musicians: Hundreds of performers follow, each group representing different aspects of Sri Lankan culture. It’s like a mobile Sri Lankan talent show!
7. More Elephants: Because you can never have too many elephants, can you?

The whole thing is a feast for the senses, a riot of colour, sound, and movement that’ll leave you dizzy with delight.

The Elephants: More Than Just a Pretty Face

Now, we simply must talk more about the elephants. These aren’t just any old pachyderms pulled off the street (as if such a thing were possible). No, these are the crème de la crème of the elephant world, specially chosen for their temperament and training.

The most important elephant of all is the one carrying the tooth relic. This tusker is known as the Maligawa Tusker, and let me tell you, it’s a position of high honour in the elephant world. Think of it as the elephant equivalent of being knighted by the Queen.

These elephants are draped in elaborate costumes, their tusks often covered in glittering casings. Lights twinkle all over their massive bodies, making them look like walking Christmas trees (only much, much larger and with rather more trunk).

But it’s not all glamour for these gentle giants. They train for years to be able to handle the noise and excitement of the Perahera. It’s a bit like elephant finishing school, if you will.

How to Join In: Be Part of the Magic

Now, if you’re thinking of popping over to Sri Lanka for this extravaganza (and why wouldn’t you?), here’s how to make the most of it:

1. Attend the processions: There’s the Kumbal Perahera for the first five nights, followed by the grander Randoli Perahera for the final five.
2. Join the rituals: While you can’t handle the tooth itself (it’s kept under lock and key, naturally), you can participate in offerings and prayers.
3. Soak up the atmosphere: Wander the streets, chat with locals, and immerse yourself in the festive spirit.

Remember, this isn’t just a show – it’s a deeply spiritual event for many. So, do be respectful, even as you’re having the time of your life.

The Water Cutting Ceremony: A Splashing Good Time

Now, just when you think the festivities are over, along comes the Water Cutting Ceremony. This takes place at the crack of dawn after the final night of the Perahera.

Picture this: the Diyawadana Nilame, still in his fancy dress (does the man ever sleep?), heads to the Mahaweli River. There, he ‘cuts’ a circle in the water with a sword and collects a pot of water from within this circle.

This water is then kept safe until the next year’s Perahera. It’s a bit like keeping your Christmas decorations in the attic, only much wetter and with more swords involved.

The ceremony symbolises purity and abundance for the coming year. It’s also a chance for early risers to see a bit of the pageantry without the crowds. Just don’t expect to stay dry if you get too close!

Gifts and Goodies: What to Buy

If you’re the type who likes to bring back a souvenir (or ten), you’re in luck. The festival is a treasure trove of traditional crafts and mementos. Here are a few ideas:

• Colourful masks: Perfect for jazzing up that blank wall in your living room.
• Batik textiles: Because who doesn’t need another scarf?
• Elephant figurines: A nod to the festival’s star performers.

Just remember, haggling is part of the fun, but do keep it friendly!

The Impact on Kandy: A City Transformed

Now, you might think that having hundreds of elephants and thousands of performers and spectators descend on your city might be a bit of a bother. And you’d be right! But for the people of Kandy, the Esala Perahera is so much more than just a logistical headache.

For the ten days of the festival, Kandy is transformed. Streets are closed off, homes are decorated, and there’s a palpable buzz in the air. It’s a bit like Christmas, Diwali, and New Year’s Eve all rolled into one (with added elephants, of course).

Local businesses boom as tourists flood in. Hotels are booked solid months in advance. Street vendors do a roaring trade in everything from snacks to souvenirs. It’s an economic boost that ripples through the entire community.

But more than that, it’s a source of immense pride. This is Kandy’s time to shine on the world stage, to showcase the very best of Sri Lankan culture and hospitality. For many locals, participating in the Perahera – whether as a performer, an organiser, or simply an enthusiastic spectator – is a highlight of the year.

Looking Ahead: The Future of Esala Perahera

As we hurtle towards the future at breakneck speed, you might wonder about the fate of such a traditional event. Fear not! The Esala Perahera is going strong, thank you very much.

While the core of the festival remains rooted in centuries-old traditions, it’s not stuck in the past. Each year brings subtle changes, ensuring the Perahera remains relevant to new generations while still honouring its rich history.

There’s been a growing focus on animal welfare, for instance, with stricter regulations on the treatment of the elephants. There’s also been a push to make the event more eco-friendly, reducing plastic waste and promoting sustainable practices.

Technology, too, has made its mark. These days, you can watch live streams of the Perahera online, allowing people from all over the world to join in the festivities (though I must say, it’s not quite the same as being there in person, feeling the ground shake as the elephants pass by).

In Conclusion: Why You Should Care

The Esala Perahera is more than just a fancy parade. It’s a window into Sri Lanka’s soul, a celebration of faith, culture, and community. In a world that often feels divided, here’s an event that brings people together, transcending boundaries of age, nationality, and belief.

It’s a testament to the enduring power of tradition, a reminder that in our fast-paced, ever-changing world, there’s still room for century-old customs. At the same time, it shows how these traditions can evolve and adapt, remaining relevant and vibrant in the modern age.

So, whether you’re a culture vulture, a spiritual seeker, or just someone who enjoys a good party, the Esala Perahera has something for you. It’s a reminder of the beauty that can arise when tradition and celebration intertwine, a testament to the enduring power of faith and community.

And who knows? Maybe one day you’ll find yourself there, caught up in the whirl of drums and dancers, marvelling at the spectacle that is the Esala Perahera. Now wouldn’t that be something?